Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos

On our return from Isabela, we spent a few more nights in Puerto Ayora (PA) and met up with Val and Woody who were on the boat with us and also staying a few extra days in PA.



Funnily enough, Val and Woody had just come to Galapagos from Pucon in Chile and had been there the same time as us but competing in the Pucon Half Ironman! Yep, they were both triathletes and travel around the world racing in different events. Woody has competed in about 16 Ironman triathlons (four of those were in Hawaii) and Val won a place at Hawaii Ironman in IM Western Australia. It was great to be able to talk about triathlon again and hear about the different races they’ve done around the world. They were staying in PA for a few nights and invited us to dinner at their hotel that was right on the waterfront.

The setting was spectacular with iguanas on the deck, crabs climbing the poles and sea lions lounging in the sun chairs (no joke). One even got up to take a dip in the fresh water plunge pool that was meant for guests, then wandered over to have a look at his reflection in the window before returning to the sun chairs.



We visited the Darwin Research Station and saw where they raise baby tortoises from the different islands until they’re mature enough to be let loose in the wild. They’re very cute when they’re small and we were a bit distraught to see this chap on his back and not be able to get back up! There were a few like that and we saw others amble over and take a look; one even bit his upside-down mate on the leg, before walking off again.



They lie still for a bit, and then get their legs going, trying to catch them on something to act as a lever.



This is probably the most famous tortoise in the world and you have probably heard of him – Lonesome George. He is the only remaining tortoise from Pinta Island and the only one of his kind left in the world. He is one fat tortoise. Look at his bum hanging out of his shell (we don’t think that’s unique of the Pinta Island species)! Apparently he went on a fruit diet a few years ago and lost about 80lb but we think he’s piled it all back on again. He has two females in with him and, despite mating with them, there are no results so something is very wrong.



This is what a normal-sized tortoises bum looks like, and fits neatly inside the shell



These ladies were being fed



and got quite vicious with each other over the food.



These tortoises can live up to 150 years old and weigh about 500lb. This one made a b-line for Euan



and slowly stomped on his foot



before moving and stomping on his other foot. Euan confirmed that they’re quite heavy.



There were a group of males in another pen on their own and they were fast asleep. I got really close to have a look at their faces but they were dead to the world.



Their feet are huge and we felt a foot size comparison was in order



Another couple from the boat, Stephen and Elizabeth, were staying in a hotel around in another bay so we visited and had lunch with them the day before we flew out. It was raining all day so it was great to have company and we spent most of the day chatting to them. (Elizabeth has her eyes closed but its the only photo of them I have.)


Photo: Sam DePaul

The weather had really packed in and it was pelting it down so we’d picked the right time to leave. It is the rainy season here but we were so lucky with over two weeks of dry hot weather. We were very sad to leave but Galapagos is very definitely somewhere that you know you can’t just simply stay on and on. It almost feels like people really should have no part of the islands at all as it is. People seem to be an intrusion in the Galapagos.

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