Tokyo, Japan 16-17 September 2008

We knew that the two week National Sumo Tournament was on while we were in town and the only day we had left was the day we flew out. We hiked it across town to the Sumo Stadium and bought the cheapest tickets possible (they’re really expensive!) as we would only be there for a few hours at most (the super stars came on at 1600 each day). The competition had been going for a few hours already when we arrived but as it was the lower ranked wrestlers turn to compete, the stadium was pretty quiet and virtually empty. This suited us and we happily made ourselves comfy in the ringside seats that weren’t yet occupied and no one seemed to notice. I’ve only ever glanced at Sumo on TV before and found watching it live very bizarre and strangely entertaining, more so than I thought it would be.

This is the inside of the stadium. The ring is only small (4.55m in diameter) and once outside the ring, there is very little room to move!



Some of the guys were quite small, more muscle than fat but were often pitched against wrestlers much larger than themselves. Many times, the smaller guy won on sheer agility and speed and some of the moves were brilliant. Before they start, they squat before one another



then start a whole ritual of stamping and slapping (some of the guys could barely lift their legs and I got the giggles)



but one chap was really really flexible!



and this can go on and on as they try to psyche each other out



Once ready, they always started facing one another, fists down



before the ref gives the nod and they lunge at each other. Most of the time they locked, sometimes they’d slap each other about the head or even bang heads – the noise made us cringe.





It’s a lot more physical than I thought it would be, I always thought it was about pushing and shoving but it seems that basically anything goes! The best move was when they both lunged at each other but one guy stepped out of the way at the last moment and the other went flying on by out of the ring. Brilliant!

Its all very ceremonious, no matter what rank the wrestler is and once the match is over, this guy wanders round singing some song



Some of the wrestlers looked in pretty good nick but others just looked fat and unfit. This guy was really puffing just walking out to the stage.



There are an official list of 82 winning techniques and some were pretty nifty. It was very funny to see the guys sitting waiting on the side get landed on. I don’t know how they didn’t get injured. The refs, one on each side, copped it too and we saw more than a few wrestlers go flying off the platform and land on someone. Hugely entertaining.

As we left the stadium, we came across a wrestler who’d been for some lunch and I asked for a photo (but had to promise Euan that I wouldn’t try any stupid poses with this chap – I was all up for getting him to faux wrestle with me but Euan wasn’t having any of it)


Then the real heavyweights started to arrive – in taxis! This guy was massive.



It was a bit of a shame that we had to head for the airport as it would have been good to see the really good guys but as it turned out, there were TVs showing it at the airport so we caught a bit of the action there while waiting.

A bit random but I couldn’t help but take a photo of this girl who was sitting next to Euan on the train to the airport. Everything was pink and white; even the phone matched.



I meant to catch more of the kooky fashion, the immaculate dressers and the perfectly accessorised garments that passed us in the street on camera but we would have had to be stationed in one place for a long time. I’ve never seen anything like it and anything goes but it always seems to be pulled off with absolute style and perfection. I have to say that I warmed to Japan and loved the people but we were left a bit disappointed by the lack of historical character in the places we visited.

It was with some reluctance that we left the efficiency, neatness and flawless service of Japan that night and flew to Beijing.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

hey those seats look very weird. how does one sit on them, do you kneel, sit with your legs crossed...? can't make any sense of the picture.

geeeezzzzz that guy must have been huuuuuuuuuge, look at his size next to Kate who is not exactly petite!

Euan and Kate said...

What do you mean I'm not petite?! ;-) Yes, the guy was big but not nearly as big as the other chap in the blue and white getup.

The seats aren't really seats. There is meant to be four people to a 'box' and you have to sit cross legged or tuck your feet under your bum.